Call it the face of freedom.
After Jorge Hendrickson lost his job at a Manhattan hedge fund three weeks ago, he stopped shaving. 'I've shaved for so long, and it's nice to be able to look at the positive side' of losing a job, says Mr. Hendrickson, 24. 'I'm changing my lifestyle while I can.'
Facial hair is showing up on more former corporate types. It's one of those tiny luxuries unleashed by unemployment, a time when people are briefly released from workaday habits and may wish to take stock of their lives before setting out anew. Al Gore grew a beard after losing the tumultuous presidential election of 2000. Neatly trimmed, it looked cozy and anti-establishment as he pursued creative projects on his way to the Nobel Peace Prize.
Scott Berger, a 35-year-old investment analyst, stopped shaving in October after being laid off from hedge fund Laurus Capital Management. 'It's something you can't do in the corporate world,' he says. He does, however, cut his facial hair closely with a beard trimmer, pledging, 'I'm not ever going to look like a lumberjack.'
The trend may be driven in part by the music industry, where beards have become fashionable. Carrissa Turley, a hair stylist at Rudy's Barbershop in trendy West Hollywood, Calif., says she began to see an uptick in beard requests in mid-October. Men up to age 40 began coming in with photos of bearded musicians from bands, including the Foo Fighters and Kings of Leon. 'It's kind of the hipster thing now,' Ms. Turley says.
For most office workers, the look remained too daring -- until they had nothing left to lose. At the Donsuki salon on Manhattan's East Side, owner Suki Duggin says she's been helping an increasing number of male clients groom newly liberated facial hair. One recent customer came in with a month's growth on his chin, saying he'd lost his job and wanted 'to totally change' his look, she says.
Ms. Duggin, who charges $30 to trim a beard, is spending more time teaching these clients to style their stubble. Beards must be trimmed closely around the mouth, for instance, to avoid embarrassing episodes when eating. One longtime customer discovered last week that his beard would need to be colored if he wanted it to match his dyed hair.
Ms. Duggin says her bewhiskered clients often associate facial hair with power and rugged masculinity. 'They joke with me about it -- 'I feel like a real man,'' she says with a chuckle.
Sure, Ernest Hemingway had whiskers. But like bow ties and white loafers, facial hair is fraught with negative connotations. An alternative meaning of 'beard' is someone who diverts suspicion from the guilty. To avoid sending unintended messages, stylists say, guys should think carefully about what their beards signal.
ZZ Top is the least of it. A thickly bearded man can seem to be hiding something. Within the Amish sect, a long, full beard may denote mature stability, but on an unemployed financial planner, it suggests rather the opposite. Grooming the beard doesn't remove all problems. A man with stubble that's cut close -- a la Tom Ford -- can seem narcissistic.
Kelly Lynn Anders, associate dean at the Washburn University School of Law in Topeka, Kansas, and author of a new advice book called 'The Organized Lawyer,' tells students to avoid facial hair entirely. As the term 'clean-shaven' implies, 'people find it cleaner,' she says.
Still, professorial beards on older men can imply depth of intellect. Indeed, Ms. Anders says, fully one-third of the law school's male faculty members have facial hair. Among them, she says, 'we have two goatees, a mustache and two full beards.'
Brad Pitt has a goatee on the cover of Architectural Digest this month, and the look implies intelligence and style as he promotes an innovative housing project in New Orleans. John Lennon's beard connoted 'thinker' and 'poet.'
Ben Bernanke's furry jawline gives the Fed chairman the look of a trustworthy intellectual. But Brad Warthen, editorial page editor for the State, a Columbia S.C., newspaper, recently pondered what would happen if Mr. Bernanke were to shave. 'Could this be the bold stroke that is needed to jolt the economy back to where it should be?' Mr. Warthen posited in his blog.
Intellectuals, musicians, artists, and tycoons like investor Sam Zell, who just took Tribune Co. into bankruptcy proceedings, have free rein with facial hair. Not so, workaday businessmen. Beards are virtually verboten in corporate circles. Bill Richardson shaved his beard last week, just before the announcement that he would be the country's next Secretary of Commerce.
For many men, growing that unemployment beard is akin to a tame dance at a bachelor party -- a momentary freedom enjoyed while the rules are suspended. Many of today's beards may be as short-lived as the holidays. Mr. Berger shaves for job interviews, then re-grows his beard, which takes about two weeks. 'I can't go on an interview with a beard,' he says.
Mr. Hendrickson isn't in favor of mixing beards and business suits either. 'Everyone who's lost their job may be changing it up,' he says, 'but I think we'll all be very happy to go back to a more regular life.'
這應(yīng)該算是一種解放吧？
三個(gè)星期前，喬治·亨德里克森(Jorge Hendrickson)失去了在曼哈頓一家對沖基金的工作崗位。從那時(shí)起，他便不再刮胡子了?！耙郧拔颐刻於嫉冒押庸蔚靡桓啥?，現(xiàn)在雖然失業(yè)，不過倒也省事了，” 24歲的亨德里克森說，“趁著我還年輕，我要改變一下生活方式?！?BR> 越來越多丟了飯碗的公司職員都蓄起了胡子，這是失業(yè)帶來的一個(gè)小好處。人們終于可以暫時(shí)從朝九晚五的生活中解脫出來，仔細(xì)審視自己的人生，以便從新開始。美國前副總統(tǒng)阿爾·戈?duì)?Al Gore)在2000年峰回路轉(zhuǎn)的總統(tǒng)競選中失利之后，就把胡子給蓄了起來，而且修剪得很仔細(xì)，看上去給人一種親切、超凡脫俗的感覺。隨后他轉(zhuǎn)而從事不少獨(dú)具新意的項(xiàng)目，并獲得了諾貝爾和平獎(jiǎng)(Nobel Peace Prize)。
35歲的斯考特·伯格(Scott Berger)是一個(gè)投資分析師。2008年10月他被對沖基金公司Laurus Capital Management解雇后，就不再刮胡子了?！叭绻氵€在公司上班，那就非得刮胡子不可，” 他說。不過，他還是會(huì)用剃須刀把在臉上亂長的胡子修得很短，并發(fā)誓說：“我才不會(huì)像伐木工人那樣滿臉都是大胡子呢?！?BR> 留胡子之所以變得流行起來，可能跟音樂界有點(diǎn)關(guān)系。在音樂界，留胡子是一種時(shí)髦。凱麗莎·特蕾(Carrissa Turley)是位于加州西好萊塢時(shí)尚街區(qū)魯?shù)厦腊l(fā)店(Rudy's Barbershop)的發(fā)型師。她說，從10月中開始，給胡子弄造型的生意就越來越火了。不少40歲以下的男人找上門來，手里拿著一些留胡子的樂隊(duì)成員的照片，其中包括“噴火戰(zhàn)斗機(jī)樂隊(duì)”(Foo Fighters)和Kings of Leon樂隊(duì)等。特蕾說，“給胡子造型是當(dāng)下最時(shí)髦的事。”
對大多數(shù)公司職員來說，留胡子還是過于大膽 ── 但是失業(yè)后，他們已經(jīng)沒什么可顧忌的了。曼哈頓東區(qū)Donsuki美發(fā)沙龍的老板蘇琪·達(dá)金(Suki Duggin)說，最近，越來越多的客人來店里修剪新蓄起來的胡子。前不久，有個(gè)客人進(jìn)店的時(shí)候已有一個(gè)月沒刮胡子，他說自己失業(yè)了，所以想“徹底改變”自己的外觀。
達(dá)金修胡子的費(fèi)用是30美元，她也在教這些客人如何打理自己的胡茬子。舉例而言，嘴巴周圍的胡子必須修得很短，免得在吃東西時(shí)糊得到處都是。上星期，有位老主顧發(fā)現(xiàn)，他得把胡子染色，才能使之與染過的頭發(fā)相匹配。
達(dá)金說，她的這些美髯公客人往往覺得，留胡子更顯威力和粗獷的男子氣概?！八麄兘?jīng)常跟我開玩笑說，‘我總算覺得自己是個(gè)男人了’。”
確實(shí)，作家海明威(Ernest Hemingway)也有一把大胡子。但與系蝴蝶結(jié)領(lǐng)結(jié)和穿白色懶漢鞋一樣，留胡子也富含各種負(fù)面的暗示。英語中的“胡子”一詞(beard)，也指那些引開別人懷疑而逃脫罪名的人。美發(fā)造型師表示，想留胡子的人應(yīng)該三思而后行，以避免引起別人的誤解。
他們尤其不能蓄（搖滾歌手）ZZ Top那樣的長胡子。大胡子男子會(huì)給人一種試圖在隱瞞什么的感覺。在阿們宗派(Amish)里，留大胡子也許意味著成熟、沉穩(wěn)，但對一個(gè)失業(yè)的金融規(guī)劃師來說，這種造型反而會(huì)適得其反，而修剪胡子也不能解決所有問題。用時(shí)尚界金童、GUCCI前設(shè)計(jì)總監(jiān)湯姆·福特(Tom Ford)的話來說，把胡子修剪到齊根的人，會(huì)顯得相當(dāng)自戀。
位于美國堪薩斯州首府托皮卡的華盛本大學(xué)法學(xué)院(Washburn University School of Law)副院長凱莉·安德斯(Kelly Lynn Anders)寫了一本勵(lì)志新書，名為《有條不紊的律師》(The Organized Lawyer)。她告訴學(xué)生們一定不能留胡子。她說，正如“白面無須”這一詞所暗示的那樣，“人們覺得沒胡子的人比較干凈?！?BR> 不過，年紀(jì)較大的人留著教授式的胡子會(huì)顯得有著深邃的智慧。事實(shí)上，安德斯說，華盛本大學(xué)法學(xué)院有三分之一的男教師都留著胡子，其中“有兩個(gè)山羊胡，一個(gè)小胡子和兩個(gè)絡(luò)腮胡”。
在2008年12月期《建筑學(xué)文摘》(Architectural Digest)的封面上，布拉德·皮特(Brad Pitt) 為新奧爾良市的一個(gè)創(chuàng)意住宅項(xiàng)目做宣傳，以留著山羊胡的樣子亮相，這種造型暗示著睿智和時(shí)尚。此外，約翰·列農(nóng)(John Lennon)的胡子造型則使人聯(lián)想到“思想家”和“詩人”。
美聯(lián)儲主席本·貝南克(Ben Bernanke)下巴上留的胡子給人一種值得信賴的知識份子形象。但是，在南卡羅來納哥倫比亞出版的《State》報(bào)的社論版編輯布萊德·沃森(Brad Warthen)最近在考慮：如果貝南克把胡子刮干凈的話，那會(huì)怎么樣呢？“這一大膽舉動(dòng)會(huì)成為讓美國經(jīng)濟(jì)走回正軌的良藥嗎？” 沃森在自己的博客中打趣道。
知識份子、音樂家、藝術(shù)家，還有像最近剛把報(bào)業(yè)巨頭Tribune Co.帶入破產(chǎn)程式的投資家山姆·塞爾(Sam Zell)那樣的億萬富翁，他們都可以隨意決定留胡子與否，但每日都要上班的公司人士卻不行。事實(shí)上，留胡子在各公司幾乎是被禁止的。上周，就在奧巴馬提名他為美國下一任商務(wù)部長之前，比爾·理查森(Bill Richardson)把自己的胡子刮干凈了。
對許多男人來說，失業(yè)后留胡子就像單身告別派對上的脫衣舞一樣，是一個(gè)短暫的自由時(shí)刻，因?yàn)槿魏维F(xiàn)存法則對他們都暫時(shí)沒有約束力了?，F(xiàn)在出現(xiàn)的很多大胡子可能會(huì)像假期一樣轉(zhuǎn)瞬即逝。投資分析師伯格每次面試前都要把胡子刮干凈，求職結(jié)束后又繼續(xù)留胡子，大約兩周時(shí)間就長起來了。“我可不能蓄著胡子去面試，”他說。
亨德里克森也不贊成留著胡子而穿西裝。他說，“每個(gè)失去工作的人都可能會(huì)改變一下自己?！?“但我想，我們都非常樂意回到更有規(guī)律的生活。”
After Jorge Hendrickson lost his job at a Manhattan hedge fund three weeks ago, he stopped shaving. 'I've shaved for so long, and it's nice to be able to look at the positive side' of losing a job, says Mr. Hendrickson, 24. 'I'm changing my lifestyle while I can.'
Facial hair is showing up on more former corporate types. It's one of those tiny luxuries unleashed by unemployment, a time when people are briefly released from workaday habits and may wish to take stock of their lives before setting out anew. Al Gore grew a beard after losing the tumultuous presidential election of 2000. Neatly trimmed, it looked cozy and anti-establishment as he pursued creative projects on his way to the Nobel Peace Prize.
Scott Berger, a 35-year-old investment analyst, stopped shaving in October after being laid off from hedge fund Laurus Capital Management. 'It's something you can't do in the corporate world,' he says. He does, however, cut his facial hair closely with a beard trimmer, pledging, 'I'm not ever going to look like a lumberjack.'
The trend may be driven in part by the music industry, where beards have become fashionable. Carrissa Turley, a hair stylist at Rudy's Barbershop in trendy West Hollywood, Calif., says she began to see an uptick in beard requests in mid-October. Men up to age 40 began coming in with photos of bearded musicians from bands, including the Foo Fighters and Kings of Leon. 'It's kind of the hipster thing now,' Ms. Turley says.
For most office workers, the look remained too daring -- until they had nothing left to lose. At the Donsuki salon on Manhattan's East Side, owner Suki Duggin says she's been helping an increasing number of male clients groom newly liberated facial hair. One recent customer came in with a month's growth on his chin, saying he'd lost his job and wanted 'to totally change' his look, she says.
Ms. Duggin, who charges $30 to trim a beard, is spending more time teaching these clients to style their stubble. Beards must be trimmed closely around the mouth, for instance, to avoid embarrassing episodes when eating. One longtime customer discovered last week that his beard would need to be colored if he wanted it to match his dyed hair.
Ms. Duggin says her bewhiskered clients often associate facial hair with power and rugged masculinity. 'They joke with me about it -- 'I feel like a real man,'' she says with a chuckle.
Sure, Ernest Hemingway had whiskers. But like bow ties and white loafers, facial hair is fraught with negative connotations. An alternative meaning of 'beard' is someone who diverts suspicion from the guilty. To avoid sending unintended messages, stylists say, guys should think carefully about what their beards signal.
ZZ Top is the least of it. A thickly bearded man can seem to be hiding something. Within the Amish sect, a long, full beard may denote mature stability, but on an unemployed financial planner, it suggests rather the opposite. Grooming the beard doesn't remove all problems. A man with stubble that's cut close -- a la Tom Ford -- can seem narcissistic.
Kelly Lynn Anders, associate dean at the Washburn University School of Law in Topeka, Kansas, and author of a new advice book called 'The Organized Lawyer,' tells students to avoid facial hair entirely. As the term 'clean-shaven' implies, 'people find it cleaner,' she says.
Still, professorial beards on older men can imply depth of intellect. Indeed, Ms. Anders says, fully one-third of the law school's male faculty members have facial hair. Among them, she says, 'we have two goatees, a mustache and two full beards.'
Brad Pitt has a goatee on the cover of Architectural Digest this month, and the look implies intelligence and style as he promotes an innovative housing project in New Orleans. John Lennon's beard connoted 'thinker' and 'poet.'
Ben Bernanke's furry jawline gives the Fed chairman the look of a trustworthy intellectual. But Brad Warthen, editorial page editor for the State, a Columbia S.C., newspaper, recently pondered what would happen if Mr. Bernanke were to shave. 'Could this be the bold stroke that is needed to jolt the economy back to where it should be?' Mr. Warthen posited in his blog.
Intellectuals, musicians, artists, and tycoons like investor Sam Zell, who just took Tribune Co. into bankruptcy proceedings, have free rein with facial hair. Not so, workaday businessmen. Beards are virtually verboten in corporate circles. Bill Richardson shaved his beard last week, just before the announcement that he would be the country's next Secretary of Commerce.
For many men, growing that unemployment beard is akin to a tame dance at a bachelor party -- a momentary freedom enjoyed while the rules are suspended. Many of today's beards may be as short-lived as the holidays. Mr. Berger shaves for job interviews, then re-grows his beard, which takes about two weeks. 'I can't go on an interview with a beard,' he says.
Mr. Hendrickson isn't in favor of mixing beards and business suits either. 'Everyone who's lost their job may be changing it up,' he says, 'but I think we'll all be very happy to go back to a more regular life.'
這應(yīng)該算是一種解放吧？
三個(gè)星期前，喬治·亨德里克森(Jorge Hendrickson)失去了在曼哈頓一家對沖基金的工作崗位。從那時(shí)起，他便不再刮胡子了?！耙郧拔颐刻於嫉冒押庸蔚靡桓啥?，現(xiàn)在雖然失業(yè)，不過倒也省事了，” 24歲的亨德里克森說，“趁著我還年輕，我要改變一下生活方式?！?BR> 越來越多丟了飯碗的公司職員都蓄起了胡子，這是失業(yè)帶來的一個(gè)小好處。人們終于可以暫時(shí)從朝九晚五的生活中解脫出來，仔細(xì)審視自己的人生，以便從新開始。美國前副總統(tǒng)阿爾·戈?duì)?Al Gore)在2000年峰回路轉(zhuǎn)的總統(tǒng)競選中失利之后，就把胡子給蓄了起來，而且修剪得很仔細(xì)，看上去給人一種親切、超凡脫俗的感覺。隨后他轉(zhuǎn)而從事不少獨(dú)具新意的項(xiàng)目，并獲得了諾貝爾和平獎(jiǎng)(Nobel Peace Prize)。
35歲的斯考特·伯格(Scott Berger)是一個(gè)投資分析師。2008年10月他被對沖基金公司Laurus Capital Management解雇后，就不再刮胡子了?！叭绻氵€在公司上班，那就非得刮胡子不可，” 他說。不過，他還是會(huì)用剃須刀把在臉上亂長的胡子修得很短，并發(fā)誓說：“我才不會(huì)像伐木工人那樣滿臉都是大胡子呢?！?BR> 留胡子之所以變得流行起來，可能跟音樂界有點(diǎn)關(guān)系。在音樂界，留胡子是一種時(shí)髦。凱麗莎·特蕾(Carrissa Turley)是位于加州西好萊塢時(shí)尚街區(qū)魯?shù)厦腊l(fā)店(Rudy's Barbershop)的發(fā)型師。她說，從10月中開始，給胡子弄造型的生意就越來越火了。不少40歲以下的男人找上門來，手里拿著一些留胡子的樂隊(duì)成員的照片，其中包括“噴火戰(zhàn)斗機(jī)樂隊(duì)”(Foo Fighters)和Kings of Leon樂隊(duì)等。特蕾說，“給胡子造型是當(dāng)下最時(shí)髦的事。”
對大多數(shù)公司職員來說，留胡子還是過于大膽 ── 但是失業(yè)后，他們已經(jīng)沒什么可顧忌的了。曼哈頓東區(qū)Donsuki美發(fā)沙龍的老板蘇琪·達(dá)金(Suki Duggin)說，最近，越來越多的客人來店里修剪新蓄起來的胡子。前不久，有個(gè)客人進(jìn)店的時(shí)候已有一個(gè)月沒刮胡子，他說自己失業(yè)了，所以想“徹底改變”自己的外觀。
達(dá)金修胡子的費(fèi)用是30美元，她也在教這些客人如何打理自己的胡茬子。舉例而言，嘴巴周圍的胡子必須修得很短，免得在吃東西時(shí)糊得到處都是。上星期，有位老主顧發(fā)現(xiàn)，他得把胡子染色，才能使之與染過的頭發(fā)相匹配。
達(dá)金說，她的這些美髯公客人往往覺得，留胡子更顯威力和粗獷的男子氣概?！八麄兘?jīng)常跟我開玩笑說，‘我總算覺得自己是個(gè)男人了’。”
確實(shí)，作家海明威(Ernest Hemingway)也有一把大胡子。但與系蝴蝶結(jié)領(lǐng)結(jié)和穿白色懶漢鞋一樣，留胡子也富含各種負(fù)面的暗示。英語中的“胡子”一詞(beard)，也指那些引開別人懷疑而逃脫罪名的人。美發(fā)造型師表示，想留胡子的人應(yīng)該三思而后行，以避免引起別人的誤解。
他們尤其不能蓄（搖滾歌手）ZZ Top那樣的長胡子。大胡子男子會(huì)給人一種試圖在隱瞞什么的感覺。在阿們宗派(Amish)里，留大胡子也許意味著成熟、沉穩(wěn)，但對一個(gè)失業(yè)的金融規(guī)劃師來說，這種造型反而會(huì)適得其反，而修剪胡子也不能解決所有問題。用時(shí)尚界金童、GUCCI前設(shè)計(jì)總監(jiān)湯姆·福特(Tom Ford)的話來說，把胡子修剪到齊根的人，會(huì)顯得相當(dāng)自戀。
位于美國堪薩斯州首府托皮卡的華盛本大學(xué)法學(xué)院(Washburn University School of Law)副院長凱莉·安德斯(Kelly Lynn Anders)寫了一本勵(lì)志新書，名為《有條不紊的律師》(The Organized Lawyer)。她告訴學(xué)生們一定不能留胡子。她說，正如“白面無須”這一詞所暗示的那樣，“人們覺得沒胡子的人比較干凈?！?BR> 不過，年紀(jì)較大的人留著教授式的胡子會(huì)顯得有著深邃的智慧。事實(shí)上，安德斯說，華盛本大學(xué)法學(xué)院有三分之一的男教師都留著胡子，其中“有兩個(gè)山羊胡，一個(gè)小胡子和兩個(gè)絡(luò)腮胡”。
在2008年12月期《建筑學(xué)文摘》(Architectural Digest)的封面上，布拉德·皮特(Brad Pitt) 為新奧爾良市的一個(gè)創(chuàng)意住宅項(xiàng)目做宣傳，以留著山羊胡的樣子亮相，這種造型暗示著睿智和時(shí)尚。此外，約翰·列農(nóng)(John Lennon)的胡子造型則使人聯(lián)想到“思想家”和“詩人”。
美聯(lián)儲主席本·貝南克(Ben Bernanke)下巴上留的胡子給人一種值得信賴的知識份子形象。但是，在南卡羅來納哥倫比亞出版的《State》報(bào)的社論版編輯布萊德·沃森(Brad Warthen)最近在考慮：如果貝南克把胡子刮干凈的話，那會(huì)怎么樣呢？“這一大膽舉動(dòng)會(huì)成為讓美國經(jīng)濟(jì)走回正軌的良藥嗎？” 沃森在自己的博客中打趣道。
知識份子、音樂家、藝術(shù)家，還有像最近剛把報(bào)業(yè)巨頭Tribune Co.帶入破產(chǎn)程式的投資家山姆·塞爾(Sam Zell)那樣的億萬富翁，他們都可以隨意決定留胡子與否，但每日都要上班的公司人士卻不行。事實(shí)上，留胡子在各公司幾乎是被禁止的。上周，就在奧巴馬提名他為美國下一任商務(wù)部長之前，比爾·理查森(Bill Richardson)把自己的胡子刮干凈了。
對許多男人來說，失業(yè)后留胡子就像單身告別派對上的脫衣舞一樣，是一個(gè)短暫的自由時(shí)刻，因?yàn)槿魏维F(xiàn)存法則對他們都暫時(shí)沒有約束力了?，F(xiàn)在出現(xiàn)的很多大胡子可能會(huì)像假期一樣轉(zhuǎn)瞬即逝。投資分析師伯格每次面試前都要把胡子刮干凈，求職結(jié)束后又繼續(xù)留胡子，大約兩周時(shí)間就長起來了。“我可不能蓄著胡子去面試，”他說。
亨德里克森也不贊成留著胡子而穿西裝。他說，“每個(gè)失去工作的人都可能會(huì)改變一下自己?！?“但我想，我們都非常樂意回到更有規(guī)律的生活。”